She was long tipped to take the helm at the French maison, having helped shape the brand’s Demna era as a menswear consultant from 2015 to 2018, just as he conceived its signature oversized clothes. Now, she is returning with creative control over the whole house, succeeding outgoing creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli, who departed on Thursday after just three seasons in the role. Rose will take on the role, based in Paris, effective November 16. Rose will be the first female creative director at Balenciaga in its 109-year history.

“Balenciaga has always been a house of radical creativity, challenging conventions and redefining the boundaries of fashion. Martine Rose embodies this spirit with a fresh, fearless and deeply contemporary vision,” Kering CEO Luca de Meo said in a statement. “Her connection to the new generation and her instinctive understanding of culture bring a new dimension to the house. Her appointment reflects our ambition to keep Balenciaga at the forefront of innovation, creativity and culture.”

“Martine Rose is an extraordinary creative talent with a bold and highly distinctive vision,” Balenciaga president and CEO Gianfranco Gianangeli said. “Her ability to challenge conventions, reinvent silhouettes and bring an unexpected perspective to fashion resonates deeply with the spirit of innovation that defines Balenciaga. We are delighted to welcome her as creative director and look forward to this exciting new chapter for the house.”

Rose carries a lot of industry goodwill. Since rumors began swirling on social media about her appointment, scores of editors, stylists, influencers and celebrities rejoiced online. Her offbeat menswear, inspired by British subcultures from football casuals to rave kids, skinheads to reggae heads, has won the designer many fans since she launched her eponymous label in 2007. Not least Kendrick Lamar, who posted about Rose after she made looks for his Big Steppers tour in 2022: “Bucket list to work with Martine Rose…” he posted to his then-12 million Instagram followers, alongside a photo of Rose peace-signing into the camera. Other celebrity fans include Rihanna, A$AP Rocky and Timothée Chalamet, all of whom have been spotted wearing her oversized, sports-infused fits in recent years.